Curved Nine Patch Block Tutorial

February Block Inspirations, a photo by owlybaby on Flickr.

These are my inspiration photos for my February Bits and Pieces Bee.  The top 4 photos (row 1) show the block that we will be making and the bottom 3 rows show my color inspirations.  I know I'm super late to the aqua and red party, but the colors look so fresh together.  Especially when I see juicy strawberries in a beautiful aqua colander! 

The pattern for this block can be found HERE.  It's a free pattern from ConnectingThreads.com called Curved Nine Patch.  You will only need to print out the last page of the document with the template pieces.  

I'm hoping people will do either 1 block of red and 1 block of aqua OR two blocks of aqua.  I was pulling fabrics from my stash and noticed that I have lots of red fabrics but very few aqua fabrics.  If you aren't afraid of curved piecing, it would be great if you could add the white curve to 2 sides of each block.  You don't need to add it to each side because the block "share" this piece. (this is not shown)

CURVED NINE PATCH TUTORIAL

So, let's get started! These instructions will cover the steps you will take to complete one block.  

You will need the template pieces A, B, C and D.  We are going to modify template piece D.  
To modify piece D - Cut out the template piece on the solid lines for the curved side and notches for cutting at the top and bottom.  Cut along the DOTTED LINE for the long straight edge.  Then, on a new sheet of paper, trace around the entire piece.  Flip the pattern piece right side down and align the long straight edge of the template with the long straight edge that you have just drawn.  Trace the curve and notches on this side.  You will end up with a long oval-ish template piece.  This is the new template D.  Don't worry too much about marking the middle.  


Now, you will need to gather your fabrics and cut the following pieces.  
Piece A - cut 1.  This is the center block.  

Piece B - cut 4.  Notice the slight curve in one side.  

Piece C - cut 4.  

Piece D - use white fabric.  Cut 2 per block. 

Arrange your pieces until you are happy with the layout. 

Now comes the sewing! Join the pieces using a .25" seam allowance.  Sew 3 rows of squares together.  Don't forget to face the curved edge on piece B to the outside.  Yes, I changed my layout - sorry about that! 

Now, join your rows.  I pressed my seams open, but I don't think it will matter too much in this block.

Make another block, if desired.  

Follow these directions to add the curved white piece.  Never fear, curved piecing is a breeze and nothing to be worried about.  First, fold piece D and your nine patch block to find the centers.  Match the centers up and pin.  

Then, match up each corner piece and pin.  If you are brave or experienced, you can usually skip this part. 

If pins make you feel more in-control, add one more pin between the center and edges on each side. 

Now, I find it easiest to sew with the convex piece on the bottom.  Sew along the curved edge, matching edges as you go.  Take care not to stretch or pull fabrics, but gently guide the edges so they curve together.  I like to match the edges as I go and work 3 inches or so in front of the presser foot.  Notice - to the left of the presser foot there are *gasp* bubbles.  These are necessary at this point.  They will extend almost to the .25" seam allowance but not to the edge.

After sewing, you will have a bowl-ish shaped edge. 

March it over to your pressing board and press the seam allowance away from the white piece.  

 Now, repeat the last step for one other edge.  How about we all plan to do the opposite edge? 

If you'd like to know how to join the pieces together to make a quilt, just continue adding nine patches and curves until it's you're desired size.

Thanks so much to the great ladies from the Bits and Pieces Quilting Bee.  I'm so excited to see your blocks!!  Also - if you don't have enough fabric of the correct color to make a block, let me know and I'll happily mail you a package! 

A video tutorial! Foundation Paper Piecing

So - I'm trying to get my sewing mojo built up to tackle some of the blocks in my Patchwork 318 book.  So, without much preamble and scant forethought - here is my first video tutorial.  The 3 videos turned out much longer than I thought they would - so just skip the parts you already understand!

Toddler-practicing-scissors unfortunately happened at the bottom of the block this morning.  Arg!

I will be making the coffee mug from the pattern graciously provided by the talented Kerry of VeryKerryBerry.blogspot.com using the foundation paper piecing method. The foundation paper piecing method I use is slightly different than the freezer paper method that she demonstrates.

Part 1 - Foundation Paper Piecing setup and Mug Handle assembly

Part 2 - Attaching the mug handle to the mug *body*

Part 3 - Finishing steps, paper removal, reveal!

I'm not sure if I'll do more video tutorials - I didn't know I was so long winded!!  It's odd to watch yourself in a video!

Knitting Bag Refashion

I would include a tutorial but it's too easy!  All you need is a seam ripper.  Rip apart the existing fabric on the musty, stained knitting bag.  Then trace the pieces onto your favorite fabrics and reassemble.  The only thing I really changed was to add more pockets!  Each bag has 3 medium sized pockets and 2 dpn or pencil pockets.  The larger bag also has a pattern pocket.

The fabrics I used for the large bag are Amy Butler's Morning Glory in Linen, Full Moon Polka Dot in Slate and Red.  It is quite large - the pocket with the flowers is holding an 8.5 x 11 piece of paper - perfect for your knitting patterns!

For the smaller bag I used Paula Prass' Woodland Delight Brick Path in Brown, and Flights of Fancy Summer Fretwork in Summer.  It was basically the same process - rip apart and put it back together in reverse order.  I did have to hand sew them to the frames, but it didn't take a horribly long time.

This bag would be the perfect size for knitting hats, kids sweaters, socks, mittens and other smaller projects.  

HINT:  If it's hard for you to remember in what order you need to sew things together, just take a photo after ripping each seam apart and sew it together in the reverse order.

Both of these bags are for sale HERE in my Etsy shop. ($45 for the large bag - SOLD, $32 for the small bag -SOLD).

Tutorial: Embroidered Nursery Art

Keeping on the a la cheap theme - I've just made a new piece of artwork for our nursery.  I've been re-organizing the space since it will soon house 2 little girls. 

Here's what you'll need to make the Embroidered Nursery Art

We haven't completely decided on a name yet for the baby coming in January but the project was so quick and easy I decided to use the first inital anyways.  Any guesses on the name for the the letter "H"?

I got these frames last year at a local thrift store and spray painted them yellow.  But I couldn't decide what to do with them until now.  The frames are pretty small - about 5 x 7.

I used a piece of linen from my scrap pile and found a cool font in Microsoft Word.  Print it out and trace the design with some carbon transfer paper underneath.  You could also just try to trace the design by holding the linen over the printout in a sunny window.

Embroider the letters with the smallest stitches possible.  You can search for a video on how to embroider if you haven't embroidered before.  It's actually pretty easy.  I used a back stitch.  This actually is a great project to do while watching "The Office" or "Parenthood".  Two of my favorite shows.

Then, trace 2 ovals the size of the opening on some cardboard and cut them out.  I used an Oatmeal Squares cereal box.

Using some leftover embroidery floss or thread - make a running stitch around the design leaving an inch outside of where the cardboard circle will be.

This part can get tricky - now pull the loose ends of the running stitch taut and place some batting or  fabric scraps inside to "pouf" the design. Slip one piece of cardboard just inside the running stitch.  Tie the running stitch ends closed. 

I had to play around with the cardboard and the batting to get the design more or less centered and evenly "poufed".  I thought it needed to be stretched a bit more - so I laced it up the back with another set of stitches in a zig zag pattern.

Add some hot glue to the back and lay the second piece of cardboard to cover your stitches in the back.

Then run a small bead of glue along the lip of your picture frame and carefully place your puffy embroidery inside.  Don't stop to take a photo or the hot glue will become cold glue!

I hope you at least give embroidery a try!  The embroidery floss only costs 29 cents and needles are cheap too! 

This would also look great with a silhouette or in a square frame with the entire name embroidered. 

Holiday gifts anyone?

FREE PATTERN: Snug Shrug Pattern and Tutorial

How adorable are little girls in ruffles?  

 

I know there are other mamas who don't want to waste money (or time sewing) on a cute holiday dress that will go unworn simply because it's too chilly outside! 

The weatherman predicts snow flurries tomorrow in Minnesota - so in anticipation - and with trepidation - I give you the SNUG SHRUG.  

 
It's a cozy little shrug for babies and toddlers.  Sizes: 3m, 6m, 12m, 18m and 24m.  I made the size 18m for little Lucy.

The pattern is made for knit fabrics so there is no ironing involved!  I love when you can wear clothes right out of the dryer!

 

 For a more sophisticated, tailored look, you can use the pattern one size larger than your child with your favorite woven cottons for a holiday cover-up!

 It would look adorable with a few little buttons or some fancy trim!

The Snug Shrug Tutorial
Sizes: 3m, 6m, 12m, 18m, 24m

Materials: 

1/4 yard cotton interlock (med. weight knit fabric) 

1.5" x 43" of knit ribbing (1x1 rib) 

sewing machine
thread

pins

sharp scissors or rotary cutter
iron and ironing board
*you CAN use this pattern for woven fabrics - just use the pattern pieces one size LARGER than your intended recipient.

Directions: 

1.  Print the pattern pieces.  Make sure to select "print actual size" or "no scaling".  Trim the margins of each page with scissors and tape pages together.  

Click here to dowload -  Snug Shrug Pattern Pieces

2.  Using a rotary cutter or scissors, cut the pattern pieces out of your fabric.  Make sure the greatest stretch of the fabric is always width-wise to the body.  It should go around the body and NOT stretch vertically or it will look droopy. 
 
3.  Sew the side seams and shoulder seams using a 3/8" allowance.  Do this for the both sets of bodice back/front pieces.  You should have 2 vest/shrug-like pieces.  Press the seams open.

 

4.  Find the center of your long ribbing piece.  Pin it to the center back on one of the shrugs.  I use my thumb as a guide to space the pleats.  Pleat the ribbing every 1.25" or so, overlapping only .25".  Pin generously. 

This is the center back of the shrug.  

Notice how the center back pleat looks like an inverted box pleats.  This way, the pleats will all face "down" on either side of the shrug. 

 

5.  Pleat only until you get to the side seams.  Leave a gap in the center back.  I widened the gap to about 1.5".  

 

6.  Sew the ribbing pieces together with the right sides (the sides touching the white fabric) together.  Stretch the ribbing slightly and pin the center back and halfway between the side seam and center back.  The shrug fabric will bunch slightly.  This is desirable and will make the ribbing "hug" the body. 

7.  Baste the ribbing to the shrug using a long straight stitch.  It should be one continuous (albeit curving) seam line. When you get to the bottom/back portion, stretch the ribbing slightly as you sew.

8.  With your ruffle basted shrug right side out - place the 2nd shrug on top, right sides together.  Match the side and shoulder seams.  Pin well.  Your ruffle will be encased within the 2 layers.

9.  Sew around the shrug just inside of your basting lines.  Clip the seam allowances to reduce bulk and clip curves if necessary (if they don't lay down flat).
 

10.  Turn right side out through one armhole and press the edges well, tugging gently at the ribbing.  Topstitch through all layers (from the right side) .25" or closer to the ribbing. 

 

11. The sleeves!  Now fold up the hem of the sleeve .5" to the wrong side.  Press.  Fold again .5" to the wrong side.  Press again!  I hate pressing but it gets the job done right!

12.  Sew 2 lines of stitching to secure the sleeve hem.  For small garments it's easier to hem the sleeve before you attach it to the garment. Shucks - it's hard to see my super straight stitching lines!  (The other sleeve was a bit wonky.)

 

Sew down the length of the sleeve, making into a tube.  Press the seam allowance to one side and tack it down with a few zig zags at the end of the sleeve.

 I'll try to take tutorial photos during daylight hours next time!! 

13.  Place shrug right side out and sleeve right side out.  Match sleeve seam line at bottom to the shrug side seam and the center top of the sleeve to the shoulder seam on shrug.  Pin well.  

14.  Sew sleeve using 3/8" allowance.  With right sides out, press well.  Repeat for other sleeve!  

Viola!  A sweet shrug for your sweet little one!

Note: I went back and zig zagged over my seam allowance at the center back so that it lay flat.  Not sure if it was necessary or not, but it bugged me!

The woven cotton version!  I think I might add 3 little white buttons on either side.  Non-functional, of course - but cute!

It sure looks cozy!

And that's it!  How snug is your little bug?

 

Feel free to share photos of your Snug Shrug in the flickr pool!